February 13, 2004 A River Runs Through It - Notes on the South River Watershed

Rivers and their watersheds have a major, if often unrecognized, impact on the way of life of people. Robert Redfords' nostalgic and lyrical 1992 film A River Runs Through It is one example. The South River which meanders from inside the western boundary of Algonquin Park SE of South River to South Bay on the south shore of Lake Nipissing has a major impact on the life of the huge watershed the river and its tributaries drain.

The South River is like the string in a historical string of pearls that I have written about on occasion - South River, Trout Creek, Powassan, Nipissing Village. Recently my attention has been drawn to the river again as I note that here is a Public Advisory Committee writing a report for the South River Water Management Plan of the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) and Ontario Power Generation (OPG). The plan will help to establish and control water levels and flow on the river relative to flooding, power generation, aquatic life, etc.

I also note that the Village of South River is trying to develop a hydro generating facility to supply power to their community. They want to re-develop the former hydroelectric station off Mill Road there, which produced power from 1908-1972. (The old power plant is a fascinating historical artifact.) The environmental report necessary for the project is now available and the public has a chance for input. Anyone having any comments on the report should review it at the Municipal Office or Public Library where directions for expressing your comments are available.

The river currently has four OPG control dams and three OPG generating stations, at Nipissing, Bingham Chute and Elliot Chute and four MNR control dams. It also has two privately owned stations (Corkney and Gitzler) and one owned by Trout Creek Power at Trussler Chute.

This activity has prompted me to look at some of the history on and around the river. Space does not allow for a full look at the evolution of life there. In my comments that follow the numbers in brackets indicate previous articles in Community Voices  - click on the index number indicated and the full article and photos will appear. Three of my articles on South River are available on the Village of South River website at www.southriverontario.com 

1934 Map of the Powassan/South Himsworth area showing the South River, McGillivary and Genesee Creeks and the early power plants, etc.

The South River like the Amable du Fond (#53) that starts in the same area as the South River, but goes in 84km east into a different watershed are the result of changes in the earth's geology over time. Several ice ages, with the last about 10,000 years ago, had a major impact on what we see today.

Native People

Native people began living in the South River watershed hundreds of years ago and traveled the river and its banks for food and campsites in their seasonal migrations. Astrid Taim in her book Almaguin A Highland History (1998) describes how The Old Moose Trail through this watershed was laid out by Chief Simon Commanda and touched among other things McGillivray Creek, a South River tributary, and helped open the area. Simon Commanda's brother-in-law and sub chief was named Genese and this name with a change in spelling was given to Genesee Lake and Genesee Creek which flows through Powassan and on to the South River draining a large part of the former South Himsworth Township (now Powassan).

Logging and Lumbering

In the mid 1800's loggers penetrated as far south as Laurier Township and took out square timber and logs each spring in the fast water of the river using dams to control the flow. Crews built rough trails along the river to get men, supplies and horses in and out and to provide mobility for the rivermen to trail their logs in the spring. These roads later became the first roads for settlers.

J.R. Booth and many others used the river for squared timber and later for saw logs as saw mills were established. These mills used water power to run the saws in the early days before steam. Water power was also used for grist mills as settlers began to be established.

The Free Land Grant Act 1867 provided free land and the lumber business provided work and drew people north. Small communities began to develop along the river in key locations like South River (#7 & #8) and Nipissing Village (#20), Powassan (#2 & #4).and Trout Creek (#3&#5) started near the river. Some were drawn to the nearby railway when it came through in the 1880's and the highway in the 1930's. All of communities had sawmills, general stores, hotels etc. and evolved into the communities they are today.

In the Village of South River for example there was an early South River Lumber Co. and later the Standard Chemical Company, which had a sawmill and a second plant for charcoal and distillates that were in demand. Trout Creek had a large lumber operation and both South River and Trout Creek had logging railways. Trout Creek was built on Trout Creek a tributary of the South River. Powassan was built on Genesee Creek where the railway crossed it. (see map).

Nipissing village with the river and Lake Nipissing nearby and as a terminus for the Nipissing Colonization Road had a great future as the big city in the area. A railway from the SW and one started along the south shore promised prosperity. But the colonization road was a failure and the railways did not materialize and as lumbering diminished so did the dream.

There are hundreds of human interest stories in the history of the watershed. One of my favorites is artist Tom Thompson's visits to South River and his painting excursions and trips along the South River as he came from Lake Nipissing and headed east into the park. (#103 & #104). I also find the story of the German prisoners of war working for the Standard Chemical Company to be fascinating. (#83).

When we look at the history of this vast area south of Lake Nipissing we should appreciate and be thankful that A River Runs Through It.